I parked the car in the somewhat spacious, but very dirty parking lot. Although, I feel that this is one idea that's beneficial for the environment and the monument. I remember that when I was still a schoolboy, I had visited the Taj mahal with a school trip and the bus had parked up right next to the gates. The Taj mahal had even then shown the after effects of the vehicular pollution. The white marble had looked quite grey and beige. The environmental preservation efforts have borne fruit and the Taj looks to be in better health. The parking, which is much before the gates now, restricts the pollution caused by car fumes from taking its toll on the monument.
It has also provided employment to more people by virtue of creating more opportunities like, the parking lots need more attendants, more cleaning staff, more security; the battery operated buses need more drivers; horse-driven and camel-driven carts need their respective 'mahouts' (operators); the path enroute to the actual gates from the parking lot has shown a mushroom growth in bars, restaurants, 'dhabas' (roadside, cheap eating joints) and handicraft shops. Though most of the local (?) handicraft is displayed and sold through the UP State Handicrafts Emporium, there is flourishing direct salesman to customer business. The salesmen (in most cases children) converge on the tourists like locusts and simply don't understand words which have a negative connotation. Words like 'No!', 'Get away!', I don't want anything!', 'Nahin chahiye!', 'Hatt jao!', 'Tang mat karo!' are deftly avoided by them as the persisting tone to sell whatever they carry increases in volume. The swarming lasts right up to the gates. All modes of transport stop some distance away from the gates. The short but tedious walk to the gate can be annoying, irritating, depressing but definitely not what one should have to bear when visiting a world heritage site.
Well, for ourselves, we were well equipped and also had Mr. S for defence. As per Mr. S's words, he was responsible for our safety as well as for a detailed and informed tour of the Taj Mahal. Safety was to be bought by refusing to acknowledge the mere presence of any salesman, child, beggar, children requesting money in the garb of selling trinkets, basically anyone who presented an opportunity of getting up close and personal with us. He kept safe distance from us for most of the journey so as not to tread on anybody's toes. (and I don't mean our toes here). He distinctly advised us not to speak or get into conversation with the 'leeches'. (Did he mean himself, guess not.)
I asked Mr. S about the best mode of transport up to the gates. The battery operated bus was the choice and he told us that it would cost Rs.100 per person. Thankfully, I had been forewarned and I told him that I would manage it on my own. We got on the bus, waited for a couple of more tourists to board and then raced across the road towards the gates. On the way, there is a police check post, which has a barricade on the road. The bus slightly slowed down before zipping past. There was obviously no policeman at the barricade and they looked like anybody but people ensuring security of the area. We came to a halt and as every one got off, I gave the driver Rs. 10. Rs. 10!!! That's right. I paid Rs 10 for the ride for all of us, when Mr. S had advised me to part with Rs. 400. Truth be told, there was no need to pay even that officially, as it is a complimentary service. Just imagine the amount that these people must be minting. WOW! That too Tax-free. Although, I believe that the 'tip' is shared by many hands. Well, surrounded by our small contingent of infestation (salesmen), we strolled over to the gate and I went over to the ticketing counter.
The tickets for foreign nationals were quoted at Rs.750, of which, ASI charge was Rs.250, while the State toll charge was a whopping Rs.500. (Why?) Absurdity at its best. Inscribed lower were the charges for the Indian nationals, who in comparison, were in no comparison at all. Rs. 20 only. Bullshit! (sorry for the expression) Another slap to my already wounded Indian pride. Inequality. Foreign nationals were being provided a bottle of water and covers for their shoes. I paid an extra Rs.10 and got a set of shoe-covers for me and Mr. S. The person, manning this service, very reluctantly parted with the extra covers.
Mr. S had already informed us that no electronic items, cigarettes, lighters or food items were allowed inside. We waltzed through the security check and waited for the ladies to emerge. There was some holdup and it transpired that Ms. G had forgotten to remove her electronic diary. I went outside with Mr. S to the locker room, where the diary was locked up and the key was transferred to me. We returned through the scanner and continued our guided tour of the Taj (another mausoleum) As we reached the center of the square and were being told about the unique and truly symmetric nature of the architecture of the monument and its surroundings, we were soon engulfed by the state authorized (?) photographers. They lingered around and then were eventually snubbed off by us (not Mr.S). Our attempts met with glares and they made rude remarks (thankfully) in hindi. We decided to move forward.
Mr.S told us that only cameras for still photography were allowed. Video cameras were allowed but only till the platform, and that too for a fee of Rs.25. Idiots! (my apologies for the foul language) I guess the administrators are still living in the dark ages. These days, most digital cameras can take some amount of video coverage too, along with the still photographs. Even most mobiles can do both, which are allowed. We walked through the eastern gate, crossed the entrance dome, and entered the lawns and the main Taj area. Beautiful and breathtaking. It is very difficult to be unmoved with the sheer magnificence of the monument and the impressive entry through the domed structure. The architecture is such that unless you are inside the dome itself, or beyond, the Taj is never completely visible. The complete view is well worth the pains. We were in luck as the weather was excellent. Raindrops simply enhanced the beauty and the overall experience. It was not hot, though slightly humid but at the same time breezy.
As we neared the platform, we wore the shoe-covers over our shoes. Mr.S returned the cover to the counter, where you can leave your shoes and socks (for Indians), and in the process pocketed Rs. 10 in return. He left his shoes and socks at the counter. Shoes are not allowed on the platform and beyond to conserve the masterpiece. Bullshit! (sorry again)
I was experiencing some pain at the back of my right knee and felt severe restriction in walking. I decided to let the ladies enjoy the guided tour, while I settled down on the boundary wall facing the river yamuna. Serene. Lovely. Picturesque view. I can find no appropriate words to express the thrill and peace that I felt at the same time, looking at the white marbled structure of exceptional architecture on one side, and the slightly bubbly river on the other. The river surface rippled as the raindrops fell on it. The ladies moved around with Mr. S and seemingly had a nice tour. We returned back from the platform and took off the covers . We were forced to throw them onto the pile overflowing from the small, covered dustbin. Why can't a bigger one be placed in it's place? I wonder! Ms. L decided to take some pics as we walked back.
The ladies expressed a desperate desire to visit the restroom. They had actually requested to avail the services of one when we had parked the car but Mr. S had suggested to use the ones inside the complex as they would be cleaner. And, then forgot all about it. (Same as me) Obviously, the aggrieved party remembered. Mr. S told us that it is free for foreign nationals but cost Rs.2 for Indians. Yippee! I was elated to have scored one over the foreigners. Indian piss scores over foreign.
We went out and collected the locked up electronic diary by depositing Rs.10. (Why?) We paid another Rs. 10 on the bus ride back. This time the driver collected Rs. 100 each from another group of two Indians and two foreigners. At last, equality for all.
Mr.S offered to take us to Mr.M's shop. Ms.G and Ms.L accepted the offer. We drove a bit and reached the shop. The ladies got busy with the staff, who could speak good russian. (?) I was offered a coke, which I accepted. It had got quite humid. I explain my relationship with the ladies when probed. Mr.S wanted to get me Rs. 50 from the shop. Why? This is provided to all the drivers that come with guests, he said. I explained that we were standing next to the SUV I owned and reiterated that the foreigners were my personal guests for whom I'd paid everything. (including the entry tickets and all) Rs. 50 was the last of my concerns. He insisted that I take. I refused for myself but asked him if he needed that money. He said no but still asked someone, who had just walked up to us, for the money. I requested (?) him to shove it up you know where. He didn't look very impressed but he pocketed the money back. Mr. S was very disappointed that I let go of Rs.50, which will now be pocketed by that individual on my behalf. This got me thinking and made me nervous with regards to Mr. S's payment and his ethical stature on the whole. To avoid any more surprises, I contacted my friend in Delhi and he said that he wanted to talk to Mr. M. I enquired about the whereabouts of Mr. M from Mr. S and was surprised to learn that he was in the shop. How come I didn't see him? Anyways. He was in the interiors of the shop and that is when I learned that he was the owner of the establishment. He spoke to my friend and a 10% commission of the sales was decided upon by them for Mr. S. The ladies bought in excess of Rs.40000. (paid in dollars) It turned out to be a good deal for Mr. S. (he told me he charges Rs.650 for the service)
Once through with the sales, Mr. S insisted that we accompany him to a marble shop but we refused. He sat down in the car and directed to the shop but we refused again and instead asked for the directions to Delhi. He implored me to pressurize the ladies to visit the marble dealer. I suppose he was on their rolls as well. Our denial to comply with his insistence must have spoilt his mood, as he got off the car in a huff and said goodbye. He got off but then stood there waiting. (expectantly for tips) Nothing doing! We started back. The road condition was even worse and there was no proper signage. I followed the road and almost ended up taking us the other way to Gwalior. Wow! Thankfully, I asked for directions and got back on the right road.
On the way toll tax is collected at two places. The to and fro journey costs Rs.52.50. This we had paid on the way to Agra. Interestingly, 0.50 is pocketed and the effective toll comes to Rs.53. (why not have it as Rs.53) Assuming that around 2000 vehicles ply on this route daily. Rs. 1000 goes to their pockets. One hell of a business.
This time round the drive seemed longer. Ms.G slept all the way till Faridabad. The last 30Kms. from there were the toughest with heavy traffic. We reached their hotel by 7.30pm. I said goodbye to Ms.G. Ms. L presented me with a bottle of vodka. Yahoo! She allowed me to use the 'restaurant' Actually, this was a small joke between us. When they had requested to go to the toilet at the Taj parking, I had asked Mr. S for the location of the restrooms. He had goofed up saying 'Restaurant' instead of 'Restroom'. Once in the privacy of the bathroom, I let lose the flow for 3 minutes at least. It was slightly embarrassing but I guess it's just this human thing. I bade farewell to Ms. L and walked out of the hotel.
How I wish that could have been the ending of the trip for me? What followed shouldn't have happened? Well, that's again another story, for another day.
Please Note:
Disclaimer : All photographs have been taken on last year's trip
1. Picture 1 - the view of Taj while we were still within the domed entrance;
2. Picture 2 - Taj in full glory
3. Picture 3 - Taj in a picturesque setting
4. Picture 4 - My sketch of Taj
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